Scale of Points

Scale of Points

Scale of Points

Scale of Points.

General appearance and character	10	Tail	5
Head	15	Legs	15
Ears	15	Chest	10
Body	10
Size and weight	20	Total	100

FRENCH TOY BULLDOG. "Barkston Billie," owned by Mrs. Townsend Green.

The general appearance of the toy bulldog must

The general appearance of the toy bulldog must

The general appearance of the toy bulldog must

Toy Bulldogs. Points of Toy Bulldogs. The general appearance of the toy bulldog must, as nearly as possible, resemble that of the big bulldog. The skull should be large, forehead flat, the skin about it well wrinkled, the "stop" broad and deep, extending up the middle of the forehead. Eyes of moderate size, situated low down on the skull, and as wide apart as possible. Ears to be "rose," if possible; "tulip" ears are allowable, but not to be encouraged; "button," or terrier-like ears are a decided fault. Face to be as short as possible, nose jet black, deeply set back, almost between the eyes. Muzzle to be short, broad, and turned upwards. The lower jaw should project considerably in front of the upper and turn up. Teeth not to be shown. Neck to be short, with much loose skin about it. "Frogginess" is objectionable. Chest to be very wide, round, and deep. Back short and strong, narrow towards the loins, and broad at the shoulder. A roach back is desirable. Tail to be short, and not carried above the back. Forelegs to be short in proportion to the hindlegs. Hindquarters much lighter in proportion than forequarters. The most desirable weight is below 20 lbs., and dogs and bitches that exceed 22 lbs. should be disqualified. The Miniature Bulldog Club. Secretary, Miss A. Bruce, 42, Hill Street, Berkeley Square, London, W.

Acknowledged Points

Acknowledged Points

Acknowledged Points

Acknowledged Points.

Symmetry. Symmetry and general appearance, decidedly square and cobby. A lean, leggy pug and a dog with short legs and a long body are equally objectionable. Size and Condition. The pug should be multum in parvo, but this condensation (if the word may be used) should be shown by compactness of form, well-knit proportions, and hardness of developed muscle. Weight from 13 lbs. to 17 lbs., dog or bitch. Body. Short and cobby, wide in chest, and well ribbed up. Legs. Very strong, straight, of moderate length, and well under. Feet. Neither so long as the foot of the hare nor so round as that of the cat; well split-up toes, and the nail black. Muzzle. Short, blunt, square, but not up-faced. Head. Large, massive, round, not apple-headed, with no indentation of the skull. Eyes. Dark in colour, very large, bold, and prominent, globular in shape, soft and solicitous in expression, very lustrous, and, when excited, full of fire. Ear. Thin, small, soft, like black velvet. There are two kinds, the "rose" and "button." Preference is given to the latter. Markings. Clearly defined. The muzzle or mask, ears, moles on cheeks, thumb-mark or diamond on forehead, back-trace, should be as black as possible. Mask. The mask should be black. The more intense and well-defined it is the better. Wrinkles. Large and deep. Trace. A black line extending from the occiput to the tail. Tail. Curled tightly as possible over the hip. The double curl is perfection. Coat. Fine, smooth, soft, short, and glossy, neither hard nor woolly. Colour. Silver, or apricot fawn. Each should be decided, to make the contrast complete between the colour and the mask and trace. N.B. The points of black pugs, except as to colour, are the same as those for fawns. The London and Provincial Pug Club. Secretary, J. Fabian, 460, Camden Road, London, N.

Standard and acknowledged points

Standard and acknowledged points

Standard and acknowledged points

Pugs. Standard and acknowledged points:

The Standard.

Symmetry	10	Mask	5
Size	5	Wrinkles	5
Condition	5	Tail	5
Body	10	Trace	5
Legs	5	Coat	5
Feet	5	Colour	5
Head	5	General carriage	5
Muzzle	5
Ears	5	Total	100
Eyes	10

BLACK PUG. "Larchmoor Peter Pan," owned by Mrs. Lyle.

The only variation being as regards the weight limits

The only variation being as regards the weight limits

The only variation being as regards the weight limits

The St. Hubert Schipperke Club standard is practically identical with that of the Schipperke Club, England, the only variation being as regards the weight limits, which this club, however, also fixes at a maximum of 12 lbs. for small-sized dogs, while it allots 30 points to coat and colour, and none to general appearance. They also have the Northern Schipperke Club. Hon. Secretary, T. W. Markland, Ingersley, Links Gate, St. Anne's-on-the-Sea.

Relative Value of Points

Relative Value of Points

Relative Value of Points

Relative Value of Points.

Head, nose, eyes, and teeth	20	Feet	5
Ears	10	Hindquarters	10
Neck, shoulders, and chest	10	Coat and colour	20
Back and loins	5	General appearance	10
Forelegs	5
Hindlegs	5	Total	100

The muzzle should be moderate in length

The muzzle should be moderate in length

The muzzle should be moderate in length

Head. Foxy in type; skull should not be round, but broad, and with little "stop." The muzzle should be moderate in length; fine, but not weak; should be well filled out under the eyes. Nose. Black and small. Eyes. Dark brown, small, more oval than round, and not full; bright and full of expression. Ears. Shape: Of moderate length, not too broad at the base, tapering to a point. Carriage: Stiffly erect, and, when in that position, the inside edge to form as near as possible a right angle with the skull, and strong enough not to be bent otherwise than lengthways. Teeth. Strong and level. Neck. Strong and full, rather short, set broad on the shoulders, and slightly arched. Shoulders. Muscular and sloping. Chest. Broad and deep in brisket. Back. Short, straight, and strong. Loins. Powerful, well drawn up from the brisket. Forelegs. Perfectly straight, well under the body, with bone in proportion to the body. Hindlegs. Strong, muscular; hocks well let down. Feet. Small, catlike, and standing well on the toes. Nails. Black. Hindquarters. Fine compared to the foreparts; muscular and well-developed thighs; tailless; rump well rounded. Coat. Black, abundant, dense, and harsh, smooth on the head, ears, and legs; lying close on the back and sides, but erect and thick round the neck, forming a mane and frill, and well feathered on back of thighs. Weight. About 12 lbs. General Appearance. A small, cobby animal, with sharp expression, intensely lively, presenting the appearance of being always on the alert. Disqualifying Points. Drop or semi-erect ears. Faults. White hairs are objected to, but are not disqualifying.

Advances the following scale of points

Advances the following scale of points

Advances the following scale of points

Schipperkes. The description of the Schipperke adopted at a general meeting of the Belgian Schipperke Club, June 19th, 1888, has been adopted by the St. Hubert Schipperke Club, and is copyright. The Schipperke Club, England, advances the following scale of points, and the Secretary is G. H. Killick, Esq., Moor House, Chorley, Lancashire.

Scale of Points

Scale of Points

Scale of Points

Scale of Points.

Hard coat	15	Legs and body	5
Reddish colour	10	Height and size	3
Eyes	7	General appearance	10
Nose and muzzle	7
Ears	3	Total	60

The Brussels Griffon Club of London (Secretary, Miss A. F. Hall, 2, Park Place Villas, Maida Hill, London, W.) offers practically the same standard, but makes a brown nose, white hairs, and a hanging tongue disqualify, while as faults it cites light eyes, silky hair on head, brown nails, and teeth showing; and its description of the typical coat is as follows: Texture of coat harsh and wiry, irregular, rather long and thick.

Toy Spaniels also have the Northern Toy Spaniel Club

Toy Spaniels also have the Northern Toy Spaniel Club

Toy Spaniels also have the Northern Toy Spaniel Club

Toy Spaniels also have the Northern Toy Spaniel Club. Secretary, Mrs. E. A. Furnival, Eastwood, Mauldeth Road, Heaton Mersey, Manchester.

Griffons Bruxellois. Points as defined by the Griffon Bruxellois Club. Hon. Secretary, Miss L. Feilding, 48, Grosvenor Gardens, London, S.W. General Appearance. A lady's little dog, intelligent, sprightly, robust, of compact appearance, reminding one of a cob, and captivating the attention by a quasi-human expression. Head. Rounded, and covered with coarse, rough hairs, somewhat longer round the eyes and on the nose, lips, and cheeks. Ears. Erect when clipped, semi-erect when not clipped. Eyes. Very large without being watery, round, nearly black; eyelids edged with black; eyelashes long and black, leaving the eye they encircle perfectly uncovered. Nose. Always black, short, surrounded with hair converging upwards and going to meet that which surrounds the eyes; the break (or stop in the nose) pronounced, but not exaggerated. Lips. Edged with black, furnished with moustache; a little black in the moustache is not a fault. Chin. Prominent, without showing the teeth, and edged by a small beard. Chest. Rather wide. Legs. As straight as possible, of medium length. Tail. Upward, and cut to the two-thirds. Colour. Red. Texture of Coat. Harsh and wiry, rather long. Weight. Light weight 5 lbs. maximum, and heavy weight 9 lbs. the maximum. Faults. Brown nose, pale-coloured eyes, silky tuft on the head, white spot on the chest or paw.

Measurements of a Perfect Specimen

Measurements of a Perfect Specimen

Measurements of a Perfect Specimen

Measurements of a Perfect Specimen.

	Inches.		Inches.
Breadth of skull at eyes from each outside corner of eyes across head	5	Height at shoulders	13
Length of skull	4	Length from top of shoulders to root of tail	13
Length of nose	2¼	Length of forelegs to elbow	7½
Circumference of skull	10½	Breadth at shoulders	6
Circumference of muzzle under eyes	6¾	Breadth at quarters	6
Space between eyes	1⅜	Girth	19
Space between ears when not pricked	4¼	Feathering on tail flag	6
Length of ears (leather)	4	Waistcoat feathering	4

The origin of the breed is unknown, but it is supposed to be descended from the original curly King Charles Spaniel (see Mr. Watson's "Book of the Dog") and the old-fashioned curly Sussex Spaniel, now extinct. There is no certainty in this. The breed exists in Italy and Holland.

Points that are Very Undesirable

Points that are Very Undesirable

Points that are Very Undesirable

Points that are Very Undesirable.

1. Timidity.	6. Exaggeration of any kind.
2. A straight coat.	7. Drooping tail.
3. Low set ears.	8. Showing teeth or tongue.
4. Exaggeratedly short or long legs.	9. An "apple" head.
5. Sluggishness.

Points that should Disqualify

Points that should Disqualify

Points that should Disqualify

Points that should Disqualify.

1. A flesh-coloured nose.	6. Light-coloured eyes.
2. A downward curve of muzzle.	7. Slanting eyes.
3. No "stop."	8. A very long body.
4. Hanging lips.	9. Bad action.
5. Crooked forelegs.

They must not be confounded with Cockers

They must not be confounded with Cockers

They must not be confounded with Cockers

They must not be confounded with Cockers, being a totally different type.

Scale of Points.

General appearance, including condition and smartness	12	Colour	5
Coat	10	Action and soundness of limb	10
Head and expression	15	Size	5
Eyes	6	Compactness, levelness of back, and set of tail	10
Curve and proportion of muzzle	6	Boldness and alertness	8
Set on of ears	5	Soundness of teeth	3
Legs and feet	5
		Total	100

Having had some classes given for it at shows

Having had some classes given for it at shows

Having had some classes given for it at shows

The Toy Trawler Spaniel. This little dog, having had some classes given for it at shows, deserves notice, and its standard and scale of points are appended, together with some remarks made upon it by a lady who has introduced it, and whose kennel of beautiful Toy Spaniels of all breeds is well known. Points. Head small and light, with very pointed, rather short, nose, fine and tapery, with a very slight curve upwards of tip of nose. A curve downwards (as in the Borzoi) should be an absolute disqualification. The "stop" well marked, and the skull rather raised, but flat on the top, not dome-shaped. Muzzle just finished, not overshot. Long ears, set high, and carried pricked forwards, framing the face. Large dark eyes, set wide apart, and showing the white when turned. They must be set perfectly straight, not obliquely, in the head. Whatever colour the dog may be, the nose and lips must be black. Neck arched. Back broad and short. Tail set on a level with the back, and carried gaily, though not straight up in the air, or curled over the back like a Pomeranian. It should be docked to about 4 or 5 inches, and well furnished with long feathering. General carriage very smart and gay. Legs reasonably short, and perfectly straight, bone light, though strong. Build square, sturdy, and compact, but never heavy. The action should be smart and prancing, coat very curly, but not woolly. It should be rather silky in texture, and very glossy. Liberal feathering, waistcoat, and breechings. Shape is all important; colour a secondary matter. Best colour a brilliant black, with white waistcoat. Next, red with white waistcoat, black and white, and red and white. Best size from 11 to 13 inches at shoulder. Any tendency to weediness should be carefully avoided, and the height at shoulders should just about equal the length from top of shoulders to root of tail. The size should not be judged by weight, but by height, as they should weigh heavily for their size. A dog about 13 inches high should weigh about 15 lbs. Very small specimens i.e., under 9 inches high are only desirable if the type, soundness, compactness, and sturdiness are unimpaired. Feet close, firm, and hard. They and the lower part of the legs should not be too heavily feathered. The expression of face should be very alert, and very sweet. The dogs should be very bold and courageous. Timidity is a great fault, and should tell against them in the ring. They are excellent ratters and rabbiters. As to proportion of head, if the total length of head be about 6 inches, the ears should be set about 4 inches apart. The whole head, seen from a bird's-eye point of view, should be triangle, with the tip of nose as apex. General appearance should be that of an exquisitely pretty little sporting dog, very strong, and exceedingly smart and compact.

Blenheim

Blenheim

Blenheim

Blenheim.

Symmetry, condition, and size	15	Ears	10
Head	15	Coat and feathering	15
Stop	5	Colour and markings	15
Muzzle	10	Spot	5
Eyes	10
		Total	100

King Charles Prince Charles and Ruby

King Charles Prince Charles and Ruby

King Charles Prince Charles and Ruby

King Charles, Prince Charles, and Ruby Spaniels.

Symmetry, condition, and size	20	Eyes	10
Head	15	Ears	15
Stop	5	Coat and feathering	15
Muzzle	10	Colour	10
		Total	100

The only name by which the tricolour

The only name by which the tricolour

The only name by which the tricolour

The only name by which the tricolour, or black, white, and tan, in future shall be recognised is "Prince Charles."

That in future the all-red toy spaniel be known by the name of "Ruby Spaniel." The colour of the nose to be black. The points of the "Ruby" to be the same as those of the "King Charles," differing only in colour.

Scale of Points.

The ears and cheeks should be red

The ears and cheeks should be red

The ears and cheeks should be red

The ears and cheeks should be red, with a blaze of white extending from the nose up to the forehead, and ending between the ears in a crescentive curve. In the centre of this blaze there should be a clear "spot" of red of the size of a sixpence. The tricolour, or Charles the First Spaniel, should have the tan of the King Charles, with markings like the Blenheim in black instead of red on a pearly-white ground. The ears and under the tail should also be lined with tan. The tricolour has no spot, that beauty being peculiarly the property of the Blenheim.

Also catered for by the North of England Pomeranian Club

Also catered for by the North of England Pomeranian Club

Also catered for by the North of England Pomeranian Club

Also catered for by the North of England Pomeranian Club. Secretary, J. Tweedale, Valley House, Oversley Ford, Wilmslow; and the Midland Counties Pomeranian Club. Hon. Secretary, Mrs. E. Parker, Meadowland, Uttoxeter Road, Derby.

Toy Spaniels (English). Points as defined by the Toy Spaniel Club. Hon. Secretary, Miss M. Hall, Chalk Hill House, Norwich. Head. Should be well domed, and in good specimens is absolutely semi-globular, sometimes even extending beyond the half-circle, and absolutely projecting over the eyes, so as nearly to meet the upturned nose. Eyes. The eyes are set wide apart, with the eyelids square to the line of the face not oblique or fox-like. The eyes themselves are large, so as to be generally considered black; their enormous pupils, which are absolutely of that colour, increasing the description. From their large size, there is always a certain amount of weeping shown at the inner angles; this is owing to a defect in the lachrymal duct. Stop. The "stop" or hollow between the eyes, is well marked, as in the bulldog, or even more so; some good specimens exhibiting a hollow deep enough to bury a small marble. Nose. The nose must be short and well turned up between the eyes, and without any indication of artificial displacement afforded by a deviation to either side. The colour of the end should be black, and it should be both deep and wide, with open nostrils. Jaw. The lower jaw must be wide between its branches, leaving plenty of space for the tongue and for the attachment of the lower lips, which should completely conceal the teeth. It should also be turned up or "finished," so as to allow of its meeting the end of the upper jaw, turned up in a similar way, as above described. Ears. The ears must be long, so as to approach the ground. In an average-sized dog they measure 20 ins. from tip to tip, and some reach 22 ins., or even a trifle more. They should be set low on the head, and be heavily feathered. In this respect the King Charles is expected to exceed the Blenheim, and his ears occasionally extend to 24 ins. Size. The most desirable size is from 7 lbs. to 10 lbs. Shape. In compactness of shape these spaniels almost rival the pug, but the length of coat adds greatly to the apparent bulk, as the body, when the coat is wetted, looks small in comparison with that dog. Still, it ought to be decidedly "cobby," with strong, stout legs, broad back, and wide chest. The symmetry of the toy spaniel is of importance, but it is seldom that there is any defect in this respect. Coat. The coat should be long, silky, soft, and wavy, but not curly. In the Blenheim there should be a profuse mane, extending well down in the front of the chest. The feather should be well displayed on the ears and feet, where it is so long as to give the appearance of their being webbed. It is also carried well up the backs of the legs. In the King Charles the feather on the ears is very long and profuse, exceeding that of the Blenheim by an inch or more. The feather on the tail (which is cut to the length of about 3½ ins. to 4 ins.) should be silky, and from 5 ins. to 6 ins. in length, constituting a marked "flag" of a square shape, and not carried above the level of the back. Colour. The colour varies with the breed. The King Charles is a rich, glossy black, and deep tan; tan spots over the eyes and on cheeks, and the usual markings on the legs are also required. The Ruby Spaniel is a rich chestnut red. The presence of a few white hairs intermixed with the black on the chest of a King Charles, or intermixed with the red on the chest of a Ruby Spaniel, shall carry very great weight against a dog, but shall not in itself absolutely disqualify; but a white patch on the chest, or white on any other part of a King Charles or Ruby Spaniel shall be a disqualification. The Blenheim must not on any account be whole-coloured, but should have a ground of pure pearly white, with bright, rich chestnut or ruby-red marking evenly distributed in large patches.

Standard and Scale of Points as laid down by the Pomeranian Club

Standard and Scale of Points as laid down by the Pomeranian Club

Standard and Scale of Points as laid down by the Pomeranian Club

Standard and Scale of Points as laid down by the Pomeranian Club. Secretary, G. M. Hicks, Esq., Granville House, Blackheath, London, S.E. Appearance. The Pomeranian in build and appearance should be a compact, short-coupled dog, well-knit in frame. His head and face should be fox-like, with small, erect ears, that appear sensible to every sound; he should exhibit great intelligence in his expression, docility in his disposition, and activity and buoyancy in his deportments. 15 points. Head. Somewhat foxy in outline, or wedge-shaped, the skull being slightly flat (although in the toy varieties the skull may be rather rounder), large in proportion to the muzzle, which should finish rather fine, and be free from lippiness. The teeth should be level, and on no account undershot. The head in its profile may exhibit a little "stop," which, however, must not be too pronounced, and the hair on head and face must be smooth or short-coated. 5 points. Eyes. Should be medium in size, rather oblique in shape, not set too wide apart, bright and dark in colour, showing great intelligence and docility of temper. In a white dog black rims round the eyes are preferable. 5 points. Ears. Should be small, and carried perfectly erect, or pricked like those of a fox, and, like the head, should be covered with soft, short hair. No plucking or trimming is allowable. 5 points. Nose. In black-and-tan, or white dogs, the nose should be black; in other coloured Pomeranians it may more often be brown or liver coloured; but in all cases the nose must be self not parti-coloured, and never white. 5 points. Neck and Shoulders. The neck, if anything, should be rather short, well set in and lion-like, covered with a profuse mane and frill of long, straight, glossy hair, sweeping from under the jaw, and covering the whole of the front part of the shoulders and chest, as well as flowing on the top of the shoulders. The shoulders must be tolerably clean and laid well back. 5 points. Body. The back must be short, and the body compact, being well ribbed up, and the barrel well rounded. The chest must be fairly deep, and not too wide. 10 points. Legs. The forelegs must be perfectly straight, of medium length not such as would be termed either "leggy" or "low on leg" but in due proportion in length and strength to a well-balanced frame, and the forelegs and thighs must be well feathered, the feet small and compact in shape. No trimming is allowable. 5 points. Coat. Properly speaking, there should be two coats, an under and an over coat the one a soft, fluffy under coat, the other a long, perfectly straight and glistening coat, covering the whole of the body, being very abundant round the neck and forepart of the shoulders and chest, where it should form a frill of long, flowing hair, extending over the shoulders, as previously described. The hindquarters, like those of a collie, should be similarly clad with long hair or feathering from the top of the rump to the hocks. The hair on the tail must be profuse and flowing over the back. 25 points. Tail. The tail is a characteristic of the breed, and should be well twisted right up from the root tightly over the back, or lying flat on the back, slightly on either side, and profusely covered with long hair, spreading out and flowing over the back. 10 points. Colour. The following colours are admissible: White, black, blue, brown, black-and-tan, fawn, sable, red, and parti-colours. The white must be quite free from lemon or any colour, and the blacks, blues, browns, black-and-tan, and reds free from white. A few white hairs in any of the self-colours shall not absolutely disqualify, but should carry great weight against the dog. In parti-coloured dogs, the colours should be evenly distributed on the body. Whole-coloured dogs with a white foot or feet, leg or legs, are decidedly objectionable, and should be discouraged, and cannot compete as whole-coloured specimens. In mixed classes i.e., where whole-coloured and parti-coloured Pomeranians compete together the preference should, if in other points they are equal, be given to the whole-coloured specimens. 10 points. Total 100 points.

In most cases the names of the Secretaries of the various clubs are given, but it must be remembered that an annual re-election takes place.

The Pomeranian Miniature Appearance

The Pomeranian Miniature Appearance

The Pomeranian Miniature Appearance

The Pomeranian Miniature Appearance. The Pomeranian Miniature in build and appearance should be a compact, short-coupled dog. His head and face should be like a miniature fox, with small, erect, and very mobile ears, pricked and brought well together, and in no case lop-eared. He should be full of life, intelligent in expression, and docile in disposition. The Pomeranian Miniature should preferably weigh about 3 to 5 lbs., but must not exceed 7 lbs. Dogs above 7 lbs. must be registered as Pomeranians. Dogs below 7 lbs. in weight must, at twelve months of age or after, be registered or re-registered as Pomeranians Miniature, and being so registered or re-registered, can never compete in classes for Pomeranians. Head. The head should be wedge-shaped and rather foxy in outline, but the skull may be rounder than the Pomeranian.

Club standards, descriptions and points of various toy breeds

Club standards, descriptions and points of various toy breeds

Club standards, descriptions and points of various toy breeds

Pomeranians. These are now divided into Pomeranians (over 7 lbs.) and Pomeranians Miniature, and the Committee of the Kennel Club have laid down the following standard, applying from June 1, 1909:

The Pomeranian. Appearance. The Pomeranian in build and appearance should be a compact, short-coupled dog, well-knit in frame. His head and face should be fox-like, with small erect ears that appear sensible to every sound. He should exhibit great intelligence in his expression, docility in his disposition, and activity and buoyancy in his deportment. In weight and size the Pomeranian varies considerably. He must be over 7 lbs., but preferably he should weigh about 10 to 14 lbs. Head. The head should be somewhat foxy in outline or wedge-shaped, the skull being flat, large in proportion to the muzzle, which should finish rather fine, and be free from lippiness. The teeth should be level, and on no account undershot. The hair on the head and face must be smooth and short-coated.

If it is possible to catch the runaway

If it is possible to catch the runaway

If it is possible to catch the runaway

If it is possible to catch the runaway, he should have his head covered to keep the light out of his eyes, and be taken home as quickly and quietly as possible to be shut in some cool and perfectly dark place until the fit passes off sufficiently to give him a dose of chloral. Afterwards he should have a diet of minced, underdone meat, with bromide of potassium to follow, for a day or two. A plunge into cold water will often stop a fit like this, but is too heroic a remedy to be safe unless the circumstances are very urgent. Cold sponging to the head is good, and quiet and darkness are essential. Some times teething fits go on increasing in frequency and severity until they merge into epilepsy, and the dog is lost. This is occasionally caused by allowing a very young, highly nervous, and excitable dog to be with others of the opposite sex, when these should be in seclusion.

Fits, very much like mild teething fits, are not uncommon in run-down dogs suffering from anæmia and the likely corollary, worms. These are often very transient, and a course of tonic treatment, with rest from excitement, and good feeding, will banish them.

Teething fits should be treated

Teething fits should be treated

Teething fits should be treated

Teething fits should be treated, as far as medicine goes, exactly as suckling fits. Just as a badly-reared, non-meat-fed bitch who, by reason of an anæmic habit, harbours worms, is a poor subject for the latter trouble, so is a puppy that has been brought up on milky slops and large, wet messes of oatmeal and bread and milk, and thus has a weakened digestion, very likely to suffer badly from fits that in a strong young dog would pass off with small trouble. There is usually some warning of teething fits, as staring eyes, etc.; but sometimes, and especially if a puppy of from six to ten months has been much excited, taken out walking on a hot day, allowed to play in the sun, or dragged unwillingly on a lead, they come on very suddenly. While out in hot sun, the dog may suddenly give a shriek and begin to run with all his might, taking no notice of calls. As a general rule, he has the sense to run home, unless some officious person on the way imagines him mad and acts as silly people do under such circumstances.

Neither chloral nor bromide affects the milk

Neither chloral nor bromide affects the milk

Neither chloral nor bromide affects the milk

Neither chloral nor bromide affects the milk; if any of it passes therein, the quantity is so very minute as to make no difference to the puppies. It is not at all necessary to take the bitch away from her litter; in fact, it is better to let her go on feeding them. Some will wish to leave their babies, and these should be taken to them and shut in with them, four times a day, and during the night. If she is thoroughly well fed, it never does the bitch any harm to bring up her family, and it would be a very great pity for the puppies to be lost when it is not necessary. But it is exceedingly important that she should be kept in a state of hyper-nutrition that is, that she should have as much good, underdone meat as she can digest. Bromides are lowering, and besides this, the state of the nerves demands the highest possible feeding. It may be expensive to feed a "fitty" bitch on good beefsteak or roast mutton four times a day, giving her a sponge cake the last thing at night and a little milk, or, what is much better and more digestible, a raw new-laid egg or raw fresh cream, in the early morning; but it is, on the whole, a cheap way of saving a litter of valuable pups. If there are a large number of pups, some may be given to a foster-mother; but as a rule these are difficult to get, and not often satisfactory. Bromides should always be given immediately after food; on no account when the stomach is empty. Chloral may be given at any time when there is a necessity for it. The 5-gr. bromide tabloids obtainable at any chemist's are very useful; it is unnecessary to dissolve them in water for dogs, but, as before stated, they must be given with or directly after food.

The symptoms are always easy to recognise

The symptoms are always easy to recognise

The symptoms are always easy to recognise

Whatever the cause, the symptoms are always easy to recognise. The bitch first loses interest in her litter, though her milk-supply is seldom, if ever, lessened. She twitches, and her eyes look dull and filmy, or glassy and staring. She wanders restlessly about, and sometimes pants in the same way as she did when expecting her confinement. Now is the time to intervene, and give one teaspoonful of syrup of chloral with an equal quantity of water. If this is not done, the attack will proceed to staggering, shrieking, and more or less violent convulsions. The administration of the chloral generally causes the symptoms to subside gradually; but should the patient be no better in two hours, repeat the dose, and if giving bromide of potassium in 5-gr. doses twice or three times a day, immediately after food, does not keep her right, she must go on taking the chloral.

Suckling fits are exceedingly common among small

Suckling fits are exceedingly common among small

Suckling fits are exceedingly common among small

Suckling fits are exceedingly common among small, highly-organised, and sensitive bitches. They generally begin about the end of the second week of nursing puppies, and do not seem to be in any way caused by overstrain; that is, a small female suckling five puppies is not more likely to suffer from these fits than one only bringing up a brace. Their exact cause is difficult to determine, since very healthy, well-fed animals may have them in common with those that are weak and miserable from under-feeding (which in this case is synonymous with feeding on a non-meat diet) or kennel life.

Epileptic fits are the most dangerous and by far the least common

Epileptic fits are the most dangerous and by far the least common

Epileptic fits are the most dangerous and by far the least common

Fits. Of these, epileptic fits are the most dangerous and by far the least common. A dog suffering from epilepsy which is thoroughly established, is practically incurable, in the present state of canine medical science. Later, perhaps, the Röntgen rays may be beneficially applied to this disease in dogs, as in human beings. In a popular manual it is scarcely necessary to go further into the subject than to say that epilepsy need not be suspected unless the convulsive attacks are more or less recurrent, and so frequent as to exhaust the animal. Not until we have tried such treatment as an amateur can safely give, which is quite enough to cure ordinary teething or suckling fits due merely to some reflex irritation affecting the brain, and found it fail, need we fear epilepsy; and when we do fear it with any reason, skilled advice and diagnosis is absolutely needful, since the case must be watched and treated on its merits.

And these need veterinary diagnosis

And these need veterinary diagnosis

And these need veterinary diagnosis

All the other kinds of poison dogs are likely to get or be given work as irritants, and these need veterinary diagnosis. Salt, I may here remark, is so violent and irritating a purgative to the dog that it is next door to a poison, and the effects of castor oil in his intestine are not so very far behind. Constant drugging is a thing as much to be avoided in dogs as in their owners, and I cannot too strongly deprecate the foolish practice foolish or worse of giving doses of castor oil after shows, or as so-called prophylactics preventives of illness. If a dog has been much confined at a show, and is likely to be irregular in consequence, a little pure olive oil with his dinner (not the nut oil often sold by grocers as olive oil) will do no harm, although a dinner of oatmeal gruel or boiled sheep's liver would be much more sensible and act better; if he seems well and lively, leave him alone. Some people actually go the length of dosing their puppies with castor oil at intervals, for no reason that I can ascertain beyond a vague idea that it "clears the system." So it does of strength and the healthy mucoid secretion of the intestine, without which natural functions cannot be properly performed. Syrup of buck-thorn, or cascara sagrada, is another medicine that should never be given to small dogs: it is far too irritating and severe. When we have such excellent aperients as olive oil, magnesia, and rhubarb among drugs, and boiled sheep's liver among meats, we want no semi-poisonous irritant and violent drugs like castor oil, which, in the end, produce the very condition they were supposed to cure, and by pulling down the system, open the door to illness.

But a subject which needs a few words

But a subject which needs a few words

But a subject which needs a few words

Poison. Not an ailment, but a subject which needs a few words, is the taking of poison by toy dogs. Unluckily, there is always risk in a town, not only of the wilful poisoner, who apparently exists, but of the ingestion of poisoned meat or bread and butter put for rats or beetles, and afterwards thrown out. In ninety-nine cases out of a hundred a poisoned dog has had strychnine, this being the favourite drug of all those who employ poison at all. Arsenic is too slow, and of other poisons, thank Providence! the vulgar have mostly no knowledge. The symptoms of strychnine poisoning are, firstly, excitement the patient runs about, and barks with a peculiar strident shriek. According to the quantity of the poison taken and the quantity of food in the stomach at the time, this stage occupies a longer or shorter period. Taken shortly after a good meal, the poison seems less rapid in action than when the stomach is empty. Presently come convulsions, and constant shrieking; then the limbs stick out and are perfectly stiff and rigid. Even at this stage the dog can often be saved if means are at hand. Never be without a bottle of syrup of chloral in the house; it will keep indefinitely. First make the dog sick. Use sulphate of zinc in water, or weak mustard and warm water, and give plenty of this latter. The best way is by putting it in a phial, and running it down the throat by way of a pouch of lower lip drawn out from the teeth at the angle of the mouth. As soon as the patient has been sick, give a teaspoonful of the syrup of chloral in water. This is the antidote to strychnine. If you cannot wait to make the patient sick, give the chloral at once but give it: and the dose may be repeated every two hours until the convulsions cease. For a tiny pup or dog under 5 lbs. the dose may be halved. Recovery from strychnine is very rapid, and it leaves, as a rule, no ill effects, though there is a widespread belief, and a mistaken one, that it subsequently affects the kidneys.

Extreme fatness may be a disease in the dog as in the human being

Extreme fatness may be a disease in the dog as in the human being

Extreme fatness may be a disease in the dog as in the human being

Obesity. Extreme fatness may be a disease in the dog as in the human being, and in this case it is cruel to accuse the poor creature of systematic over-eating, as it is everyone's impulse to do. The bromides and iodides are useful, but cannot be prescribed haphazard. Thyroid gland tabloids may also be tried, beginning with one once a day, and gradually creeping up to three a day, according to the dog's size. Their effect on the digestion is not always happy, so that the dog must be watched to assure the owner of its toleration of them.

And their temperament is that of the habitual shiverer

And their temperament is that of the habitual shiverer

And their temperament is that of the habitual shiverer

Hysteria. There are, most certainly, hysterical dogs, and their temperament is that of the habitual shiverer, though very thin-skinned toys sometimes really shiver from cold. A hysterical dog will bark itself quite out of breath at the least disturbance, and shriek exactly like its prototype human. Nature cannot be changed, but a tonic sometimes does good. Excitability and nervousness are characteristic of some breeds. Poms are, perhaps, the most excitable of small dogs, and pugs certainly the least so.

Shivering is a bad trick some dogs acquire

Shivering is a bad trick some dogs acquire

Shivering is a bad trick some dogs acquire

Shivering. Shivering is a bad trick some dogs acquire, and others have by nature. It generally, if unaccompanied by a high temperature, means nothing whatever, unless it be nerves. But, short of the Weir Mitchell treatment, I imagine nothing benefits these latter more than a mild scolding, with admonitions "not to be so silly."

Though this is the rarest of all causes in the dog

Though this is the rarest of all causes in the dog

Though this is the rarest of all causes in the dog

Stomach Coughs. Very dreadful coughs are sometimes heard proceeding entirely from the stomach. For these a little course of indigestion treatment often does wonders. Or, again, coughing may be caused by a fish-bone or something similar in the throat, though this is the rarest of all causes in the dog, owing to his possessing a most tremendous gullet, quite out of proportion to his size.

The worst-sounding coughs are often the least important

The worst-sounding coughs are often the least important

The worst-sounding coughs are often the least important

Chest Diseases. The worst-sounding coughs are often the least important, and may pass off in a few days without treatment, but a bronchial rattling in the throat calls for care. Bronchitis in toy dogs must be treated exactly as in children, and, needless to say, the dog must not go out until the acute stage is passed. Most clean dogs will go to a box of earth in a cellar. A bronchitis kettle must be kept going in the room, and the patient will need an invalidish diet and much petting and amusement to carry him through the dull hours of discomfort. Dogs have congestion of the lungs, pleurisy, pneumonia, just as people do, and need the same careful nursing. Medicine in such cases is usually unnecessary, because it worries the patient and can do little good. A mild fever mixture may be prescribed by the vet, who should always be called in the moment the breathing goes wrong. Dulness, lassitude, shivering, and a high temperature the clinical thermometer is of all things needed here with troubled breathing, are symptoms of the highest importance, and skilled aid should be immediately called to them. The amateur cannot diagnose these lung and chest troubles.

A chest cold needs a flannel cross-over

A chest cold needs a flannel cross-over

A chest cold needs a flannel cross-over

Colds and Coughs. Colds, or coryza, beset dogs as they do humans, but in lesser degree. A chest cold needs a flannel cross-over, sometimes a hot linseed poultice (in treating dogs it is much better to use, if possible, some dry poultice which will not leave the dog sopping after it is removed), or a mustard-leaf. Rubbing with white vaseline oil and ten drops of turpentine to each ounce, if vigorously done, is as good for colds as for rheumatism. Everyone knows what a cold is, and the toy dog's cold should be treated like one's own. The clinical thermometer should be used, and if the temperature exceeds 100°, a pill of 5 grs. of nitrate of potash should be given every four hours until it is normal again, or, if it cannot be got down thus, give ½ gr. of sulphate of quinine and 1 gr. of phenacetin, using the tabloids, and dividing them as desired. The strength must be well kept up. Coughs the dog's hollow, deep-drawn brand are a sore trial to the hearer. They sound terrible, but are seldom of much moment. If from cold, put a little vaseline or glycerine on the nose three or four times a day. It will be licked off, and give relief, while some dogs will eat glycerine lozenges if not flavoured with lemon. Vaseline, again, is an excellent thing for bronchial wheezing, such as pugs are especially subject to, and will always be taken if put on the nose. Cream also is soothing, and where is the dog that does not like it?

Is a trouble which besets some dogs

Is a trouble which besets some dogs

Is a trouble which besets some dogs

Sore Feet. Eczema, or little boils between the toes and round the dew-claw on the front legs, is a trouble which besets some dogs. Constitutional treatment, as laid down for eczema, is needful, and as the dog will invariably worry the sores incessantly by licking, they should be dusted with zinc or ichthyol powder, and then bandaged or socked. If a dog is constantly licking its dew-claw, look at it to make sure it is not growing in. In this case it needs to be cut rather short, preferably by a veterinary surgeon, and the sore dressed. Dew-claws on the hind legs should always be removed by a veterinary surgeon in puppy-hood.

Simple cold in the eyes or more often

Simple cold in the eyes or more often

Simple cold in the eyes or more often

Simple cold in the eyes or more often, only in one is a very ordinary ailment, but distressing both to sufferer and owner. The affected eye waters more or less profusely, and is kept partly closed. Within, there is the same appearance as in catarrhal ophthalmia, but in a less degree, and there may be fever and constitutional disturbance, in which case the patient must be treated for a coryza, or "common cold." A boracic and poppy-head lotion is the quickest cure for cold in the eyes, and is also useful in the ophthalmic condition. It soothes the pain greatly, and is best applied by means of a small all-indiarubber ball syringe. On no account must a syringe with a bone or glass or vulcanite point be used: the indiarubber nozzle is soft, and from it one or two drops can easily be inserted between the eyelids. The amount of resistance the patient makes will be proportionate to the severity of the inflammation, and as this lessens he will endure the operation with serenity. To make the lotion at home, buy a poppy-head, price about a halfpenny, from any chemist, and boil it for an hour or longer in half a pint of water, adding to this as it evaporates. When the water is sherry-coloured, dissolve 10 grs. of boracic acid powder in each fluid ounce, allow to cool, and use as frequently as convenient once every hour, while the congestion of the lining membrane of the eyelids is active.

The eye of the dog is an even more delicate structure than the ear

The eye of the dog is an even more delicate structure than the ear

The eye of the dog is an even more delicate structure than the ear

The Eyes. The eye of the dog is an even more delicate structure than the ear, and only skilled surgical aid should approach it in any but the simplest ailments. Of these are the simple catarrhal ophthalmia, the symptoms of which are redness of the lining membrane of the lids, and a greenish discharge, turning brown and dry later, which comes from cold and weakness of constitution. The victim of this must be kept in an even temperature, be not allowed to lie by the fire, or look into it, or to go out of doors in wind, hot sunshine, or cold, and be well fed with good nourishing meat and light, digestible food. The discharge should be wiped away from the eyes at morning and evening with a bit of sponge dipped in a warm boracic lotion which any chemist will supply of the proper strength; and immediately afterwards a little bit of yellow oxide of mercury ointment, about as large as a small split pea, should be gently introduced under the lid of the affected eye with a camel's hair brush. Do not, on any account, accept "golden ointment," if the chemist happens to offer you this old-fashioned remedy (I believe) for styes! It is made of the red oxide of mercury, and is a very great deal stronger than the yellow oxide of mercury ointment, which, by the way, should be made in the strength of 2 grs. to the ounce. This latter ointment may also be used where, after distemper, a bluish film lingers in the eye. Amaurosis is not uncommon in the dog. The eyes look perfectly right, but the dog is blind. This may be an hereditary condition, but sometimes comes in as a result of weakness pure and simple. Iron tonics, cod liver oil, nux vomica, etc., may be given, and sometimes prove effectual. Good living is essential. These cases are occasionally cured rather suddenly, but as a rule are incurable.

This is a common thing enough during teething

This is a common thing enough during teething

This is a common thing enough during teething

People are sometimes alarmed because their puppies' ears do not stand erect when they should, or are pointing in all directions but the right when they should drop. This is a common thing enough during teething, and will generally come quite right later on. If it does not, no active remedy by operation is permissible if the dog is to be shown, but a good deal can be done by oiling the ears and manipulating them constantly in the desired direction by massage, while, in the case of youngish puppies, two or three thicknesses of horses' leg bandage plaster, cut to fit the inside and point of the ear, will either, if stuck in by warming it, help the ear to drop or to stand up, as is desired. This is a legitimate "fake," I may remark. But, of course, the process must not be used with any idea of deception, though it is allowable to aid Nature in the way she should go.

If the trouble has gone on a good while

If the trouble has gone on a good while

If the trouble has gone on a good while

If the trouble has gone on a good while, and there is much brown discharge, it will be necessary to use a lotion. First of all use the ointment, as described, and clear away as much of the softened discharge as possible by this means, being, of course, exceedingly gentle in your manipulation, for these, at best, are very tender parts. Then take the following lotion: Warm water, ½ pt.; Goulard's extract of lead, 1 tablespoonful; powdered boracic acid, ½ dr. The boracic powder to be added to the water first, and the Goulard after, and the whole on no account to be used otherwise than nicely warm, or it will cause pain. The bottle can, of course, be filled at once, and a little of the contents warmed for use as needed. Lay the patient down on the sound side, with the bad ear uppermost, and get someone to hold him firmly. Then gently pour about half to one teaspoonful of the warm lotion into the ear, and work it about from outside. Keep him lying still for three or five minutes, then let him go, and fly! For he will shake the superfluous lotion all over you if you are not cautious. A great deal of remonstrant ploughing about generally follows, but the application does not really cause any pain, and will soon cure if persevered with twice a day for a week or so. Such frightful and almost, if not quite, incurable cases as one sometimes meets with in sporting dogs, where the ears have become thoroughly diseased from, in the first place, getting wet and dirty, and being subsequently neglected, are, I rejoice to say, unknown among well-cared-for toys.

There is always a slight characteristic smell about a bad ear

There is always a slight characteristic smell about a bad ear

There is always a slight characteristic smell about a bad ear

There is always a slight characteristic smell about a "bad ear," which any experienced person can recognise in an instant, often before any other sign of trouble is seen. Some dogs most, in fact need watching in this respect. The moment the toy is seen to be a little one-sided as to head, or evinces any disposition to scratch his ear, a small lump of boric ointment should be put in the meatus, pushed in with the little finger, and worked about until it melts down into the passage and convolutions. Next day the ear may be cleaned out with the tip of the little finger covered with a very soft handkerchief, and the ointment again used, and this, in slight cases, will effect a cure. Never attempt to put any hard instrument, or, indeed, any instrument at all, other than the soft suppleness of a feeling finger, into a dog's ear.

I have never seen but one case of hide-bound in a house-dog

I have never seen but one case of hide-bound in a house-dog

I have never seen but one case of hide-bound in a house-dog

I have never seen but one case of "hide-bound" in a house-dog, and that not in a toy. The skin was thickened and hard. Although the complaint is an interesting one from its rarity, that same fortunate quality renders it unnecessary for me to enter into the question a veterinary surgeon must undertake such a case.

The Ears. The ears in toy dogs are often the seat of a slight congestion which has no particular cause, but is more common in some individuals than others, and generally occurs at intervals in those subjects which have once had it. If taken early, the cure of an attack is very simple; but if neglected, the congested state may increase and culminate in inflammation of the middle ear, otitis, and the bugbear "canker," of which we hear so much, and which is really extremely rare. There are many stages of the trouble, from the slightly hot and red external ear, which causes the dog to put two claws in the passage and try to scratch it, and sometimes succeed in making a sore place thereby, through the phases of rubbing the side of the head on the carpet or ground, groaning and shaking the head violently, and other manifestations of pain, up to the existence of real canker, when there is much soreness and redness externally, with swelling of the meatus, or passage, a profuse and very dark brown discharge, and a very disagreeable odour.

Most often seen over the inside of the thighs

Most often seen over the inside of the thighs

Most often seen over the inside of the thighs

Erythema, a general redness and rash, most often seen over the inside of the thighs, and sometimes all over a dog's least hairy parts, is about the only skin disease if we except the curious and rare condition, "hide-bound" from which dogs very occasionally suffer, that, in a common way, arises from over-feeding. It is best treated by change of diet, small nourishing meat meals, and the avoidance of any heating, farinaceous substances, milk, or greasy food of any kind. A small dose of sulphate of magnesia twice a week in food as much as will lie, not heaped, on sixpence for a 6-lb. dog is often all the medicine needful. Want of exercise is a frequent producer of skin disease. Dogs not sufficiently exercised, or kept much shut up in hot rooms, have inactive livers, whence all kinds of evils.

Is much more common than is generally supposed

Is much more common than is generally supposed

Is much more common than is generally supposed

Another skin complaint which, is much more common than is generally supposed, is ringworm. I have often seen this diagnosed as eczema, whereas it really is very easy to tell its true nature, as it has very marked characteristics.

It begins with tiny, round, bare spots, about as large as the head of a pin, which usually escape notice at first, but gradually spread round the edges, not always in a circular form, but sometimes as irregular patches, the skin appearing greyish, but not unhealthy. On looking closely it will be seen that the hairs have been broken off short, close to the skin, but are clearly visible, which is the chief feature of the disease and the infallible sign. Ringworm may be caught at any time, most frequently from a visit to some infested stable, but occasionally from chance contagion in the streets. Horses are subject to the same form of the complaint, and dogs generally catch it from them; it is sporadic, and the spores may, of course, fall about anywhere from an infected horse or another dog. It is extremely capricious in its inception; dogs in the same house may or may not catch it from one another, and sometimes a whole kennel will be infected, with the exception of one or two dogs apparently immune. There is, however, no excuse for allowing it to spread, as it is easy to cure. Some of the strongest tincture of iodine available should be well soaked into the spot, and round the edges thereof, using a little ball of cotton wool tied on to the end of a tiny stick, or an aural sponge, and rubbing the iodine somewhat in with this. Two applications will generally kill the spores the disease is a parasitic fungus and should be made at an interval of a couple of days. For some time fresh spots are likely to appear, and should be touched up at once. The muzzle, legs, and chest are generally most affected. If left quite alone the complaint would disfigure the dog terribly, but would, after a time, die out of its own accord. I have not found that human subjects were infected with this disease from the dog. A little iodide of potassium ointment may be put on the patches once or twice, to hasten the complete cure, or they may be washed with the phenyl lotion, in which the proportion is 1 in 40. The hairs are weakened, and take some little time to grow properly again, but the disease is by no means a serious one, and it is not necessary to use any such stronger and dangerous remedies as carbolic acid, as sometimes suggested.

Arsenic is what is known as a cumulative drug

Arsenic is what is known as a cumulative drug

Arsenic is what is known as a cumulative drug

Arsenic is what is known as a cumulative drug; it produces no special effect until a good deal is stored up in the system. When enough has been given, the said system revolts, and now, when the dog's eyes begin to look watery, and the mucous membrane lining the mouth may be a little red, you have given enough, and must cease; for a time only if the disease is not subdued in permanence if it be. One last word arsenic is the dernier ressort, and should not be used until other means have failed, whereas some people fly to it when a much simpler treatment would have done all that was necessary.

A bottle of cod liver oil and malt

A bottle of cod liver oil and malt

A bottle of cod liver oil and malt

Get, then, a bottle of cod liver oil and malt, and 1 oz. or more, if you please of saccharated carbonate of iron. In your pet's dinner mix, at first, well covered over with cut-up meat of extra daintiness, a scant half-teaspoonful of the solution with a dust of the iron, which is a sweet powder. Nearly all dogs will take this without any trouble, and soon get very fond of the oil, even if they object to it at first; but they must not see the dose introduced into the meal. Let them think it an accident, or at any rate, in the natural way of things, and they are far less likely to object than if they see you making a parade of mixing and covering. The dose, given twice a day, in meat dinner and supper, should be gradually increased, until a dog of 6 lbs. is taking a full teaspoonful of the solution twice a day, with 3 grs. of iron to each dose; and patience will be needed, for, to do any good, this dosing must go on for at least a month. It may then be left off gradually, and resumed again if necessary. In obstinate cases of skin disease, arsenic is a most valuable remedy, and may with most effect be combined with the system of cod liver oil, malt extract, and saccharated carbonate of iron just described. Fowler's solution, which is generally recommended, should not be used, because it contains oil of lavender, which is very offensive to dogs, and sickens them; the British Pharmacopœia solution should be the one used. Of this the dose is from one drop twice a day, to be gradually increased up to four drops twice a day for toys; the best way is to get the B.P. solution from your chemist, mixed with such a quantity of distilled water as that there are four drops in each teaspoonful. This may be given with iron and without the cod liver oil, or with cod liver oil without the iron, or alone, in food it is tasteless but is far better given in combination with the two. Mr. Appleby, Argyle Street, Bath, puts up the iron and arsenic together in a very easily used form, known as the "Kanofelin Blood Mixture," This, my own formula, I generally advise to my readers whose dogs do not or cannot take cod liver oil; he also, inter alia, puts up the worm capsules to my prescription as mentioned for the use of toy dog owners; and it is sometimes an advantage to get your medicines ready made.

As oatmeal or Indian corn meals

As oatmeal or Indian corn meals

As oatmeal or Indian corn meals

A very dry or confined diet, certain meals, as oatmeal or Indian corn meals, either in biscuits or otherwise; too little food; more rarely too much; absence of meat from the dietary, or too little of it; as before, but very rarely too much these are all incentives to skin trouble, while heredity has much to say to a tendency thereto.

A dog which has not been having much meat, but has been chiefly fed on dog biscuit, may, on the appearance of skin irritation, be given plenty of good, underdone meat roast mutton, sheep's head, and bullock's heart, all being very suitable. In no case of skin disease should either oatmeal or Indian corn be given; and sea air should be avoided, as it is always aggravating to skin troubles. Tripe is nourishing and very digestible, and fresh fish suits most of the invalids very well. Together with the entire change of diet the hours for meals need not, of course, be altered a course of iron and cod liver oil is always well worth trying. Personally, I pin my faith to the following method, which I have known most successful in difficult cases, and which, as I can say of the other remedies advised in this little book, can do no harm. Powerful drugs are often a source of danger in inexperienced hands, and a good many of the medicines one sees advised are, so to speak, extremely speculative.

In which the insect causing the trouble burrows deep

In which the insect causing the trouble burrows deep

In which the insect causing the trouble burrows deep

Follicular mange, in which the insect causing the trouble burrows deep, is a horrible disease, about the worst a dog can have, and here skilled veterinary assistance cannot be dispensed with. But it is safe for the amateur, in all cases of commencing skin trouble, where there is no smell and the bare patches do not spread rapidly, to use the phenyl lotion or sulphur or Kanofelin ointment, according to the state of the skin, and to begin the more important internal treatment by a complete change of diet.

The latter is easier to cure than many forms of eczema

The latter is easier to cure than many forms of eczema

The latter is easier to cure than many forms of eczema

In all cases where skin trouble is accompanied by a strong and most unpleasant smell, mange (either follicular, or, more commonly, sarcoptic), may be suspected. The latter is easier to cure than many forms of eczema, but it is absolutely needful to keep the patient smothered in a dressing of sweet oil and sulphur, than which there is nothing better, for several days, then to wash and dress again; and such cases are not suitable for home treatment, although no veterinary surgeon should be permitted to apply strong dressings like paraffin, mercurial ointment, or tar (otherwise creosote) to delicate toys. Mercurial dressings, in all cases, are rank poison, the absorption of the drug into the system having fatal effects for the future.

In the treatment of medicated baths

In the treatment of medicated baths

In the treatment of medicated baths

In the treatment of medicated baths, usually composed of that most evil-smelling compound liver of sulphur and water in professional language, "a sulphuretted potash solution" I own I have little or no faith. A plain sulphur ointment is twice as efficacious, far easier to apply, and has no disagreeable smell; while, if well rubbed into the skin, as it and other skin ointments should be, and not left in the hair, it is not in any way unpleasant.

Some dry and scaly skin eruptions

Some dry and scaly skin eruptions

Some dry and scaly skin eruptions

Some dry and scaly skin eruptions, of which pityriasis is the most common, need different treatment. Where-ever bare places appearing on the toy dog look scurfy, and scales fall off, do not use any lotion, nor rub, but lightly dab on a little zinc ointment if the dog is not given to licking the parts; if he is, use a plain, rather thin, sulphur ointment: Sublimated sulphur, 1 oz.; vaseline, 4 ozs. This latter may also be used in cases where the Kanofelin lotion is useful, and then be well rubbed in; but the rule is no rubbing when scales or scurf are present. The Kanofelin ointment is harmless and useful in all cases. Applications can be much varied to suit cases, and where violent irritation is present, it is sometimes necessary to use a more complex preparation than those mentioned. The poisonous nature of some of the ingredients, included in the most efficacious of them, however, makes it very undesirable to use them otherwise than under the advice of a skilled surgeon. The following cream is a most useful application for use in cases where the skin is not broken, where great irritation and redness of the skin are present, and where the affected parts either cannot be reached by the patient, or the latter can be muzzled during treatment. It is, however, poisonous, on account of the carbolic acid and lead it contains: Liquor plumbi diacet., 4 drs.; liquor carbonis detergens, 40 mns.; boracic acid powder, 1 oz.; new milk, to 4 ozs. Shake well before use, and apply frequently with a bit of sponge. Label: Poison.

It is known as the Kanofelin lotion

It is known as the Kanofelin lotion

It is known as the Kanofelin lotion

The existence of too many worms in puppies generally accompanies skin trouble in the form of bare patches, which may be well rubbed daily with a sponge dipped in an extremely simple, safe, and useful lotion, which I can recommend to be given a trial in all forms of skin disease, as in no case can it do harm, while in many cases it will effect a cure so far as any outward application is capable of doing. It is known as the Kanofelin lotion, a preparation of phenyl, which is not irritating, or in any way poisonous or disagreeable to the nose, but has a taste which prevents dogs from licking it off; should they do so, however, it will not harm them. The lotion, after being applied and well rubbed in with the sponge to smooth, bare places, where the skin is not broken, should be wiped off with a towel or handkerchief, as it is not wise to leave the dog wet. It should be used twice a day, and where the skin is broken, very gently with a soft sponge, and, of course, no rubbing in.

Puppies often teeth with a rash

Puppies often teeth with a rash

Puppies often teeth with a rash

Puppies often teeth with a rash, called puppy-pox, which shows as general redness of the skin, generally on the bare parts of the body, under the forelegs, etc., and here and there groups of pustules, each of which contains a drop of thin pus. This is a complaint allied to chicken-pox in children, and by no means dangerous in fact, a puppy which teethes with such a rash has generally the making of a strong and healthy dog. At the same time, whenever either this trouble, or bare patches about the legs and face, are seen on puppies, the teeth should be looked to, for it is probable they are in some way irritating the system.

Some breeds are very much more subject to skin trouble than others

Some breeds are very much more subject to skin trouble than others

Some breeds are very much more subject to skin trouble than others

Some breeds are very much more subject to skin trouble than others, and all long-haired dogs are apt to suffer from simple eczema and erythema, the latter especially when young; while distemper of a severe kind is often followed by a disease of the skin, closely resembling mange, for which it is often unfortunately mistaken. It should be simply treated with a mild antiseptic ointment, while the constitutional weakness is the focus for attention.

The most common form of skin disease in adult dogs is eczema

The most common form of skin disease in adult dogs is eczema

The most common form of skin disease in adult dogs is eczema

The most common form of skin disease in adult dogs is eczema, which for purposes of rough, or popular, classification, may be divided into two forms, wet and dry. Weeping eczema is decidedly uncommon, but is the only form of skin disease offering open sores and raw surfaces likely to affect comparatively well-cared-for toy dogs. In this, as in the dry, severer forms of eczema, it is useless to attempt cure by mere outward applications. The mischief is in the blood, and until the blood is put right the external symptoms will continue, unless, indeed, strong mercurial lotion or ointment be used, which may fatally drive the disease in, and by clearing up the skin and so depriving the body of the safety-valve of outward lesions, eventually kill the animal. Such a proceeding is occasionally resorted to by unscrupulous persons whose only desire is to sell their mangy or eczematous dogs, for the immediate effect of dressing with mercurial ointment is often almost miraculously good to the eye. Therefore, my advice to the amateur is, under no circumstances to purchase a dog which is known to have suffered from any severe form of skin disease. Even if the complaint has not been doctored in the way described, and has been cured by honest methods, it may always break out again, for it is in the constitution. I must, of course, except cases in which contagious eczema has been given to the victim by some other dog, but in dealing with strangers, shops, or professional dealers, it is wisest to avoid a purchase where skin disease has existed.

Even veterinary surgeons are sometimes hazy in this respect

Even veterinary surgeons are sometimes hazy in this respect

Even veterinary surgeons are sometimes hazy in this respect

Skin Troubles. The most annoying thing about the skin complaints which occasionally beset toy dogs is the difficulty to the amateur of diagnosing them correctly. Even veterinary surgeons are sometimes hazy in this respect, and it is therefore well when a skin trouble refuses to yield to simple remedies, incapable of doing harm, to consult a man really experienced in toys, and not some uninterested, and even rather contemptuous, practitioner, who may even commit such a cruel barbarity as I have heard of, in the advising of sheep dip!

Each should be prescribed for on its merits

Each should be prescribed for on its merits

Each should be prescribed for on its merits

The watchword in distemper, as I said before, is nursing good nursing alone will pull most dogs through and I deliberately refrain from giving any prescriptions, because, as each case varies according to circumstances and the patient's constitution, each should be prescribed for on its merits.

For far too long we have gone on in a rough-and-ready rule-of-thumb method of dosing dogs all in the same way, without regard to idiosyncrasy, which all the time has been as marked in them as in human kind and the sooner we change all this and study each dog after its kind, the better for them and for us.

And carry the contagion with them

And carry the contagion with them

And carry the contagion with them

The one quarrel we all have with shows is that they certainly offer opportunities of spreading distemper to people who do not consider its existence in their kennels a sufficient reason for withholding entries, and carry the contagion with them, although the dogs they exhibit may be in themselves unaffected. An old-fashioned piece of advice in distemper, and one always given, was that at the outset of the disease a dose of castor oil, or some other aperient, should be administered. I have no hesitation at all in saying that whereas castor oil to the dog a violent irritant purgative has carried off many and many a puppy and delicate adult that, if not so weakened just when all the reserve forces of strength were most needed, might have pulled through, this practice is a most mistaken one, to say the least of it. If there is any probability of there being any collection in the intestine which needs clearing away, pure olive oil will do all, and more than castor oil, and will neither cause the pain at the time nor the subsequent constipation, which will be the inevitable results, if there are no worse ones, of the stronger, and, I must call it, vile, drug. Another fallacy is the supposed desirability of constantly washing the eyes and nose with warm water. This is often not properly dried off, and chill results, while all the fuss and worry is quite needless and does no good. A little bit of old linen rag may be torn up and the fragments used to clean off the discharges and at once burnt. Once, or even twice, a day a sponge damped with boracic lotion can be used, but very sparingly.

Is not yet known to all dog owners namely

Is not yet known to all dog owners namely

Is not yet known to all dog owners namely

It may, perhaps, be as well to state what, I suppose, is not yet known to all dog owners namely, the fact that it is by no means a necessity for a toy, or any other dog for that matter, to have distemper. Like scarlet fever in the human subject, distemper may occur in a dog's life, or may not. The child takes scarlet fever if it has been in the way of infection, and the dog distemper if the contagion has been conveyed to it either by some person who has been near an affected dog, by that dog itself, or by some article on which infected discharges of any kind have been deposited.

Commonly called the Stuttgart disease

Commonly called the Stuttgart disease

Commonly called the Stuttgart disease

The "new" disease, commonly called the Stuttgart disease, which has created so much excitement among dog owners during the last year or two, and is of the nature of gastritis, or inflammation of the lining membrane of the stomach, spreading upwards and downwards, calls in some ways for quite a different treatment to that of the typhoid form of distemper. They are alike in this: that a teaspoonful or so of iced champagne or iced soda and milk, will sometimes be retained where nothing else will, but in gastric catarrh, or gastritis, the patient must not be allowed to drink water, or to make the slightest exertion.